Category: Posts

Mulu National Park, Malaysia – is nomadic hunting-gathering in our future?

the mouth of deer cave contains a forest

Note: Please read this previous post for information about rampant deforestation in Sarawak.

Mulu National Park is in Sarawak State on Borneo Island.  It’s well known for its breathtakingly gigantic limestone caves, of which Deer Cave is in competition for the largest cave passage in the world.  If you’ve seen BBC’s epic nature documentary Planet Earth, you may remember a scene showing millions of bats streaming out of an enormous cave in a seemingly endless ribbon.  I was there!

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World’s Longest Rainforest Canopy Walk

Extending 480 meters, Mulu National Park’s rainforest canopy trail is claimed to be the world’s longest.  The trail is a series of rope and wood bridges suspended among a number of treehouse-like platforms built about 20 meters above the forest floor.  From the trail,  all of the layers of the primary rainforest are visible.  It’s an enjoyable, low-impact way to see the rainforest from a different perspective.

Warning: the mildly acrophobic may feel an oddly (un)pleasant tingly feeling in the ass region when looking down from the trail.

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Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia

Mount Kinabalu, the highest point in Malaysia, is located on Borneo Island, the mystical land of headhunters.  Unfortunately, we spent only two days there because our time was limited and we also wanted to check out Mulu National Park.  As a result, I didn’t have a chance to investigate the area’s environmental problems, but I can say that I was happy with the management of the Mount Kinabalu climb.

The permitting system is very strict.  Only 146 permits are issued each day to prevent overcrowding and limit impact on the park’s environment.  Hikers are required to spend a night at the hostel at Laban Rata, located several kilometers below the peak, before waking up really early to scramble up the peak in the dark.  The number of beds at the hostel is also set at 146.

Permits are checked at the entrance to the trail and at a another checkpoint near the peak, and from what I saw, it would have been difficult to sneak past either spot.

Finally, one guide must be hired for every six hikers.  This is a great way to bring money to the local people, and contributes positively to the safety and educational value of the hike.

The trade-off is that the cost is quite high, but I think it’s well worth the experience, and in the long run these measures are necessary to protect this beautiful place.

As I alluded to in the previous post, I was more impressed by the journey than the view at the top.  Maybe I’m getting over my lifelong obsession with goals and targets and gradually learning to live in the present, starting to enjoy the weird phenomenon of just being alive.

That said, the area near the peak was also cool.  For some reason, the texture of the granite reminded me of Michael Bay’s Transformers movies.  In the picture above, you can see part of the rope that hikers grip in the dark as they struggle up the slippery stone.

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Penang Hill, Malaysia

One weekend, we joined a local group of outdoors enthusiasts on a hike up Penang Hill, one of the highest spots on Penang Island.  The hike started getting hot and heavy in the beautiful Penang Botanical Gardens, built up to a climax at the Crag Hotel and rolled off at Flagstaff Hill, the destination of Penang’s famous Swiss-made funicular railway.

The Crag Hotel, pictured above, was built by the British in the 1890s and has lain abandoned since 1977 except for a brief appearance in the film Indochine.  Despite the years of neglect, the buildings and fixtures remain elegant, and the views of Penang Island are excellent.  If I had a million dollars…

Besides the Crag Hotel, the highlight of this hike was the wildlife –

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Langkawi Island, Malaysia

Because I have such a huge backlog of pictures and experiences to share, and I don’t have time to make such involved galleries as I did for Inle Lake and Bagan, I’m going to try something new – a lightning round of posts.

For each location that I visited, I’ll create a post including 5 pictures or less, choosing the sights and experiences that most deeply impressed me.  The only exceptions I’ll make are for stories with an environmental theme.  In those cases I may include more than 5 pictures.

Here’s the first one – Langkawi Island, Malaysia.  Langkawi is located on the northwest coast of peninsular Malaysia.  It’s a well an over-developed island paradise, with extensive white-sand beaches, waterfalls, mountains, and plenty of clear blue seas for watersports.  As soon as you get off the ferry, rent a Kia hatchback or a scooter and the island is yours!

The other great thing about Langkawi is that it’s the only place in Malaysia where alcohol is duty free.

The first picture, above, shows  a viewing bridge at the top of the Langkawi cable car.  From the bridge I could see much of the island as well as the limitless blue sea.  But the best part of standing on the bridge wasn’t the view.  It was closing my eyes and letting the sound and touch of the sea breeze overwhelm my senses, feeling as though I was hovering in between that opening in the mountains, high above the canyon below.

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