Tag: laos

Organic Goat Cheese – a bedtime story

As you may recall, my two concrete goals for this Southeast Asian journey were 1) to meditate in Myanmar; and 2) to volunteer at the Vang Vieng Organic Farm.

The first goal I accomplished to my satisfaction back in July, and since then I had been eagerly anticipating my stint with Mr. T in Vang Vieng.

Years ago, a friend of mine volunteered here and had the time of his life, working with a bunch of village kids to build a community center out of mud bricks.  I am happy to report that the community center is in good shape and still a beloved activity area for local children.

I was hoping to spend some time in the quiet countryside and learn basic organic farming techniques.  Unfortunately, my hopes were dashed the first day I arrived.

In the last couple of years, locals have built a row of tubing bars along the river just downstream of the Organic Farm.  These bars blast deafening western pop music from about 11 AM to 5 PM everyday, sending tangible vibrations through all matter, living or not, within a several hundred meter radius.  It was impossible to concentrate, relax, or enjoy myself with the thumping bass and sickeningly catchy melodies constantly forcing themselves into my eardrums.  Even my trusty earplugs were no use.

The organic farming front wasn’t much better.  It was the end of rainy season and not much planting or harvesting was going on.  All I could do was help take care of the goats – which turned out to be even more fun than it sounds.

First thing every morning, we’d get up to sweep goat shit.  The goats live in a raised structure with cracks between the wooden boards, allowing their pellets to be swept onto the ground below.  Once the poop is on the ground, it is swept up and placed into earthworm composting tubs.  Every few months, the contents of the tubs are emptied and used for fertilizer.

And here, the story of our goat cheese begins.

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Landslide


Today’s post is dedicated to Stevie Nicks.

I’m in Laos! Today’s trip from Phonsavan to Luang Prabang should have taken about 6 hours.  Instead, it took about 9.5 thanks to this huge landslide.  Though they’re not all visible in this photo, there were 5 excavators working simultaneously to re-build the road.

If not for our driver having a friend on the other side of the landslide with whom he could exchange passengers, we would still be stuck there.  That road was in bad shape.  When we crossed the collapsed area by foot to reach the other van, I took one crazy step that ended with my entire lower leg submerged in mud.  Luckily, another passenger was there to help me pull out.  The ridiculous thing is, this happens often enough for them to have 5 excavators on hand.  There must be a more permanent and efficient solution.

I’m not sure if there’s any connection, but the mountains along the highway show evidence of slash-and-burn agriculture.  You can see the huge bald spots (lighter green) all over the mountains in the picture below.  I was surprised to see crops growing on such steep slopes.  The resulting erosion may contribute to mudslides like this one.