It may surprise you to learn that the highlight of my Laos trip was Phonsavan, a remote town in northeastern Laos.

Most people visit Phonsavan to see the enigmatic Plain of Jars, an area where ancients placed hundreds of huge stone jars whose purpose has yet to be deciphered.

The area around Phonsavan also holds the unfortunate distinction of being the most heavily bombed region in the most heavily bombed country in the history of mankind.  In its campaign against Vietnamese communists, the U.S. also waged a secret war in Laos, leaving behind countless tons of explosives that continue to maim and disfigure the people of Laos to this day.  According to this article from The Guardian:

Laos was hit by an average of one B-52 bomb-load every eight minutes, 24 hours a day, between 1964 and 1973. US bombers dropped more ordnance on Laos in this period than was dropped during the whole of the second world war. Of the 260m “bombies” that rained down, particularly on Xieng Khouang province, 80m failed to explode, leaving a deadly legacy.

a few discovered bombs, defused and placed in front of the local tourism office

yah, our foreign policy has some dark spots.

Several NGOs are actively clearing unexploded ordinance (UXO) from the area and educating locals about UXO-related dangers.  When you visit Phonsavan, be sure to drop by the local Mines Advisory Group (MAG) office.  They have well-designed, informative exhibits and friendly staff.

maybe the government that created this mess should contribute more to the clean-up effort.

motorbike is really the only way to see Phonsavan. my god, what a fun day!

the inescapable agave penis appears yet again!

these bomb craters are everywhere

forested crater

Plain of Jars, site 1

some jars have unwittingly become flower pots

from a distance, the number of large craters is even more apparent.

this poor jar has seen better days

plain of jars, site 3

the resourceful inhabitants of bomb spoon village turn unearthed bombs into spoons, bracelets and chopsticks

guy smiley showing me how he pours molten metal into a clay mold to make a spoon with his backyard forge